Birch trees on Chamberlain Lake
Birch trees along the shore of Chamberlain Lake catch the last light of the day.
Deer near Chamberlain Lake
Deer are regular visitors to the grassy lawn at Nugent's Chamberlain Lake Camps. The deer have lots of company in the Allagash; about 25,000 people visit the waterway each year. Staff photos by John Ewing.

We are on the 92-mile-long Allagash Wilderness Waterway, continuing our search for Thoreau, for the frontier he found here 150 years ago. It is certainly wild here, but a debate is raging about how to manage that wilderness. For the fist time since the waterway was created in 1966, a management plan has been proposed....

The Allagash and East Branch stories:

  • Imperiled Wilderness The Allagash, which Henry David Thoreau visited in 1857, is threatened by the sheer number of people visiting it each year.





    5 - Umbazooksus Stream - A narrow, slow-moving stream that meanders through a meadow of sedge and wool-grass. The woods are far back from the shore here, prompting Thoreau to shout out several times "to awake an echo." Joe Polis, the author's American Indian guide, politely reminded Thoreau that they were looking for moose, and his shouts would scare the animal away.

    6 - Lock Dam - This dam between Chamberlain and Eagle lakes was built in 1841 to raise the level of Chamberlain Lake and reverse its flow from north to south (enabling logs to be sent to Bangor rather than Canada). Thoreau's party had trouble finding the dam, writing "There is no triumphal arch over the modest inlet or outlet, but . . . it trickles in or out through the uninterrupted forest, as through a sponge."

    7 - Chamberlain Farm - This was a working farm and lumbering depot in Thoreau's time. The author, returning from Eagle Lake in 1857, camped on nearby Hog Point and walked to the farm to get four pounds of brown sugar. Today, the farm largely is overgrown with raspberries, purple vetch and dogwood. One of the original buildings - probably a bunkhouse - still stands.

    8 - Eagle Lake - Thoreau stopped here on July 28, 1857, on the southeast end of Pillsbury Island. It is the northernmost point in Maine that Thoreau visited. He and his companions ate dinner and waited for a thunderstorm to pass before returning to Chamberlain Lake. Today, the campsite on the island is named for Thoreau, and an eight-point buck who lives here will greet you, and even eat out of your hand. A stand of old-growth white pine can be seen directly across the lake from the campsite.

  • Original content in this site by Lori Haugen, graphics by Kathy Jungjohann, Guy Gannett New Media.
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    Background: Excerpt from Thoreau's Journal, June 25th, 1853, © The Pierpont Morgan Library, New York, MA 1302.29.

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